Italian
collar (w/ hidden buttons)
Which tie knot with an Italian collar?
The advantage of the Italian collar is that it is rather discreet and quite classic. It is a collar whose points are not too flared nor tightened allowing it to be worn with or without a tie.
The single or double knot is suitable, as is the Windsor knot which is more imposing. Because it's a very classic collar, there are no restrictions.
Can you wear a bow tie with an Italian collar?
Historically, the bow tie is worn with a broken collar. If you don't want a broken collar, then you will need a collar whose points are rather tight (the flared or cut-away collar would reveal the ribbon of the bow tie). The Italian collar will therefore be perfect.
What is the correct length for a spread collar?
The current fashion wants the collars to be shorter than twenty years ago. And our collars are perfectly adapted to this evolution since they are 6.1cm long.
It's just the right length so the collar won't ride up when wearing a tie and short enough that the collar won't be too tall without a tie when open.
Does the spread collar touch the lapels of a suit jacket?
Among the different types of collars, the French collar, for example, whose points are very close together, can never have a point touching the sides of the jacket. On the other hand, a cut-away collar being much more open will automatically have its points which will touch the lapels of the jacket whatever its length.
As for the Italian collar, it is halfway between the two. We have chosen an Italian collar with a fairly standard opening angle. From experience, when our Italian collars are buttoned, they touch the sides of a closed jacket if its opening is rather narrow (that is to say that it is not automatic and for all jackets).
Guide Première Manche
Italian collar (w/ hidden buttons) : the art of well-made clothing
The Italian collar is the most classic collar, perfect for those who don't want to take any risks. Intermediate between the French collar, whose points are close together, and the cut-away collar with its points that go back to the back, the Italian collar is traditionally worn with a tie or a rather large knot to fill it out. With its wider opening than the French collar, Italian collar shirts are however more and more adopted in casual contexts, worn without a tie. Like the French collar, the Italian collar can be worn by any type of morphology and in particular by those who have an elongated face: this collar allows you to add roundness to the silhouette. At Première Manche, the collars have a particularity that will give a little something extra to your look: we have hidden buttons on each side of the collar so that it stays in place. This significant addition gives your collar hold, it does not move, even without a stay!
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