THE URBAN MILITARY PRINT, OR HOW TO GIVE CHARACTER TO YOUR OUTFIT
Temps de lecture : 3 minutes
THE MILITARY SHIRT
The Military Style
Prestance, pride, virility, courage, strength, the military of yesterday and today inspire many strong values that put man in the spotlight.
Their clothing style inevitably evokes quality, resistance, holding.
So many references that justify the appropriation of these codes by fashion.
The military style and especially the military shirts make their entry into the modern world.
The history of military style
1815, Waterloo: the blue of Napoleonic uniforms mingles with the red of English tunics. Each country proudly wears its colors, and thus better identifies its troops as well as those of the enemy armies during the melee.
1914, World War I: the great frontal confrontations gave way to new techniques: combat gas, tanks, machine guns, aviation... men had to be protected and hidden. The British, Russians and Germans understood this and adopted green or khaki uniforms. France did not evolve and sent its infantrymen to the battlefields in colored uniforms: blue jackets and red pants that were far too visible.
It is a massacre. Louis Guingot, a painter from Lorraine, is appalled by the losses of the French army. In his workshop, he designed the first camouflage uniform in the world: the "leopard suit". The French army used it but only to protect artillery pieces, planes and warships!
In 1918, the Germans adopted the camouflage uniform, a world first. This movement will inspire all nations who will gradually abandon their shimmering clothes. Camouflage became a means of offensive and defensive combat.
It was developed by cubist painters who used their talent to decompose forms and inscribe the object in its surrounding environment: Guirand de Scevola, Dunoyer de Segonzac, Jacques Villon, Roger de La Fresnay, André Mare. These artists are integrated by the French army in a section called "camoufleurs". The colors used were mostly green, khaki, brown and beige, sometimes black or gray.
The word "camouflage" was born in the French military jargon in 1914 based on the Italian verb "camuffare" with the same meaning.
During the Second World War, individual camouflage developed strongly. Each country adopts its own camouflage styles to differentiate itself from the enemy troops. Camouflage must be adapted to each season and its colors. It is estimated that the chances of survival are increased by 15% through camouflage.
Once the war was over, the military look gradually took over all cultural movements one after the other. It was worn by American pacifist activists protesting against the Vietnam War (1955-1975).
It was taken up by the hippies who associated camouflage fatigues and floral shirts, then adopted by the punks and grunges in the late 80s.
The 90s mark the advent of a real trend around this style. Whether it is in the background or in the forefront, it inspires the greatest designers who explore its codes from season to season to adapt them to the wardrobe of the modern man and decline them on all clothing and accessories.
Dries Van Noten Fall - Winter 2016 fashion show
Balmain Fall 2017 fashion show
Dior Homme Fall - Winter 2018 - 2019 fashion show
Isabel Marant Fall-Winter 2019 - 2020 Fashion Show
The different styles of camouflage
The camouflage print differs between armies and years. It is designed to adapt to the environment. There are several types of camouflage.
Broken camouflage: large brushstrokes of two, three or four colors on an already colored fabric.
- Camouflage M81Woodland :
used by the American forces
- Camouflage Centre Europe CEE :
used by the French army
Flecktarn:
Now widespread, it represents a "plane tree" pattern in small dots, composed of three to six shades. The pointillism version XXIème century.
The Flecktarn is used by the Japanese army.
- Digital camouflage:
It was developed in the 2000s by the Canadian military. It uses satellite image synthesis
Iconic brands of camouflage
Maharishistore, Carhartt, The North Face, Deus ex Machina, Edwin, Patagonia, Supreme, Stussy, Palace, The Kooples...these brands are the spokespersons of the "camo" trend, which designates the camouflage print typical of traditional military outfits. They decline it on emblematic pieces such as military jackets, shirts or overshirts, pants, sweaters, accessories: caps, bags, sneakers. Associated with a sober outfit, this strong print brings character and personality to the male look. The khaki shirt conquers the front of the stage: Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Ruckfield the rugby brand of Sébastien Chabal, Superdry and Première Manche put it in the spotlight in their collections.
Mango
Ralph Lauren
Tommy Hilfiger
Rugfield
La marque de Rugby par Sébastien Chabal
Superdry
Deus Customs
The Kooples
Premiere Manche
Carhartt
The North Face
Supreme Streetwear
The second-hand market
The pleasure of hunting for authentic military items in thrift stores remains an attractive alternative. For modest prices, you can wear unique jackets, still marked with the initials of their owners and revive a real national pride. You can also find them in large quantities on marketplaces like etsy, amazon or ebay.
How to adopt the military print ?
How to adopt the codes of the military print?
First of all, a strong military piece associated with a neutral outfit is all the more highlighted. It brings a real touch of personality to a look. It can also be matched with a light color that provides light and contrast with the dark shades of the camouflage print or on the contrary with a very dark color that brings out the print in an elegant style. Do not mix with a different green or another print as this will confuse the issue.
The advantages of military style: khaki and camouflage colors can be worn in summer and winter. They adapt to all clothing styles: chic or casual, with jeans and a tee-shirt or with a navy blue jacket and leather shoes.
You can choose a strong piece such as pants, a parka or a coat depending on the season, or opt for a more discreet piece but which brings a sharp touch like a shirt or an accessory (tie, clutch...). The choice is vast as for the multitude of prints and shades.
The military parka
It remains the emblematic piece and easy to wear, revisited year after year by fashion brands. It guarantees a successful silhouette without effort and without overloading the outfit.
The military pants
It combines perfectly with a denim shirt, a dark jacket, leather shoes. We can bring light with a lighter accessory. Current trend, the superposition of clothes always gives more character and softens the military look.
The tie and pouch
They bring an original and very masculine touch of elegance. It's the little note that stands out and that we notice right away.
The military coat
A strong piece of the winter wardrobe, it sets the tone. Khaki, it remains versatile and adapts to all outfits. Worn very regularly, it must be well chosen for its cut and quality.
Timeless, the military look adapts to all styles, in discreet touches as in strong accessories. It inspires poise and pride, true to our history, while evolving towards a revisited urban chic style, adapted to the modern man.
