THE DENIM SHIRT: A MUST-HAVE FOR THE MODERN WARDROBE
Temps de lecture : 3 minutes
THE DENIM SHIRT
The denim material was born in Europe but took its full extent in the United States where it revolutionized the fashion industry.
The history of the denim shirt
The origin of denim
The fabric "denim" was invented in Genoa in the Middle Ages and then spread rapidly throughout Europe. It inspired in France the creation of another material made from a mixture of wool and silk: the "serge de Nîmes" which anglicized, became later "denim" according to a legend of the history of denim. Similarly "jean" would be an anglicism of the name "Genoa". This international lexicon is therefore from our French language!
Later, the new denim was invented in the United States, it is made from a two-tone cotton fabric obtained by intertwining a light weft thread with a warp thread dyed in a natural blue. This dyeing is obtained thanks to two plants: the indigo tree and the dyers' woad. It is called "Blu di Genova", Genoa Blue, hence the name blue jeans.
Denim in America
The jeans as pants appeared in the United States thanks to the association of two men: Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis.
Levi Strauss, a young Austrian of 23 years, emigrated in 1853 in San Francisco to take advantage of the fruitful fallout of the gold rush. He decided to buy denim fabric to sell to gold seekers in the form of tents and tarps. The denim canvas was as resistant as the tent cloths used until then and it was more aesthetic.
For his part, Jacob Davis, from Riga in Latvia, settled in Nevada where he created a spinning business. In 1870, he made a solid pair of pants for a lumberjack from a roll of cotton canvas purchased from Levi Strauss. He applies copper rivets to maintain the fabric at certain points. This new pant is emulated. The lumberjacks, gold diggers and cowboys are adept of its qualities: resistance and good wear capacities: with the wearing and the washings the fabric softens. In 1872, wishing to develop this new market, Davis proposed to Levi Strauss to join forces. A patent was filed on May 20, 1873 under the name "improvement in Fastening Pocket-Openings". This patent expired in 1890 and competition developed. It responded to a real increase in the demand for work clothes in connection with industrialization and the expansion of the country. Some of today's world-famous brands began their activity at this time: Hamilton Carhartt in 1884, Henry-David Lee in 1889, Blue Bell became Wrangler in 1904.
Around the 1930s, natural dyes were replaced by synthetic dyes, with blue and black remaining the dominant colors.
Denim in the 20th century
Throughout the 20th century, denim clothing was democratized, going beyond the borders of factories and ranches, to reach the daily wardrobe of Americans.
The cinema presents its first Westerns (first film in 1904). These popularize the jeans. The influence of stars such as John Wayne made jeans an essential part of the wardrobe, and radio stations and the press relayed the trend. The myth of the cowboy took on its full scope and the ready-to-wear brands were inspired by this image.
In 1935, the cover of the American Vogue headlines: "True Western chic was invented by cowboys".
In 1945, during the landing and the liberation of France, the Americans made Europeans discover this new fashion. The export of denim culture is underway.
During the "Trente Glorieuses", iconic actors like James Dean or Marilyn Monroe continue to promote this trend. It is a symbol of youth and freedom. The search for innovation and competition between brands leads to innovation and the appearance of new shapes: the first denim jacket was created in 1951 by Levi's.
In the 80s, jeans conquered the catwalks. The great fashion houses made it a real fashion phenomenon: Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier or Alexander McQueen. The designers exploit and decline the denim in shorts, jacket, shirt, dyed, torn, fringed, it is worn in all occasions: chic or casual, day or night. Symbol of comfort, jeans are constantly reinvented.
The production of denim
With globalization and in a logic of cost reduction, the major brands relocate the production of denim in countries where the cost of labor is cheaper. We go from a local manufacturer to an international production. Cotton is grown in Pakistan, South Korea or West Africa. It is then sent to Italy, a country with historical know-how, where it is woven into large canvases. These are then transferred to China where they are cut and assembled. The finishing touches (zippers, rivets, buttons...), which require skilled labor, are done in Northern Europe. A production that is not very respectful of the environment with the numerous international trips that it causes.
Today, there is a renewed interest in localized production in countries with historical know-how. Japan and Europe among others are part of this logic.
Japanese denim
Japan is the production center of the internationally renowned "Japan denim". The production, which started in the 60's in Kojima, a high place of textile production, is done entirely on site from the cultivation of cotton to the sale of the finished product. Japan denim" is internationally renowned for the quality and strength of its fabrics.
You can discover the jeans street in Kojima with no less than thirty stores: Momotaro Jeans & Rampuya, Japan Blue Jeans, AppleDo, BLUXE, Pure Blue Japan...We can also quote other emblematic Japanese brands: Edwin, Iron Heart, Kapital, Orslow, The Flat Head...
But also a museum of jeans, created by the jeans manufacturer Betty Smith. This museum presents the history of jeans since its origin in the United States. Betty Smith, founded in 1962, was the first Japanese brand of jeans for women.
European denims
Similarly, European production remains faithful to its know-how. We can quote the brands APC (French brand whose fabrics are woven on old Japanese looms and are not subject to any treatment and which has long taken back old worn jeans to recycle them), Atelier de la Venise Normande (French brand also whose production is located in Normandy, and the jeans are made from an Italian fabric), Dnm Pieces (French brand, made in France), Renhsen (French brand whose jeans are made from Japanese fabrics), Indigofera (Swedish brand, European handmade from Japanese fabrics)...
Denim fabrics
There is a distinction between classic denim and selvedge, two different production techniques of denim.
The selvedge denim
The selvedge is made from a thread that is not cut at the ends, which allows to obtain a thicker fabric. Shuttle jet looms keep the same thread from one edge to the other.
Classic denim
In contrast, classic denim is more fragile because the threads are cut at the ends.
The classic denim costs less in production and is faster to manufacture. It is therefore predominant in the current offer of brands. Selvedge denim takes longer and is more expensive to produce, but it is making a comeback thanks to a renewed interest in quality and durable products that age well over time.
The thickness of a denim
The denim chosen can be more or less heavy, and therefore adapts to the seasons. We can classify the thickness of a denim by its weight which is measured in oz.
1 oz (1m2 of fabric) = about 28 g.
From 9 to 11 oz: we have a light fabric, perfect for summer
From 11 to 13 oz: a fabric suitable for all four seasons
From 13 to 16 oz: thick fabric for mid-season and winter
The colors
Washing allows us to obtain a wide variety of colors. We distinguish from the darkest to the lightest: the raw, the stonewashed, the one wash, the bleached ... the finishes and added details are endless, which makes the choice very wide.
Raw Denim
Denim Stone washed
Denim Bleached
The design of a denim shirt
Denim pants have a disadvantage: you can't sit with their pockets full. The Western shirt was therefore created in the 1910s to overcome this problem: its patch pockets that replace the function of the jeans pockets are characteristic. This made it very useful for workers who could insert their tools and accessories.
Over the years, it was modernized and adorned with new details to end up in 1946 with the "Western Shirt", worn by rodeo and movie stars. The Rockmount brand innovated by applying mother-of-pearl buttons on the pockets and thus launched the myth of the denim shirt.
Western Cowboy
This is the most common model, the seam is on the front of the shoulders, the shirt is closed with snaps. Two pockets on the chest complete the model: they are sawtooth, with a single tooth or with an offset button to allow cowboys to take a cigarette out of their pocket without removing the pack.
The Kooples shirt
Casual denim
It adapts to the urban lifestyle: the fabric is lighter, the collar can be buttoned, the chest pockets do not have a flap.
Uniqlo shirt
Today, integrated in the modern wardrobe, Western shirts as well as casual shirts can be easily combined with any look, the important thing being to contrast with the pants: beige chino and dark denim shirt, black or navy pants and light denim shirt. They can be worn open over a white tee shirt.
Worn over a white tee shirt
Jules shirt
Worn over black jeans
Sober denim
A fine and silky fabric, few details, a satin look, this is the denim shirt in its most sophisticated version. It goes with a navy blue blazer and plain pants or darker jeans. You can add a touch of fantasy with a knit tie that will enhance it.
Worn with a suit
Ba-sh shirt
Worn with darker jeans
Première Manche denim shirt
Denim and Chambray
We often tend to confuse denim and chambray. Chambray is defined by a weaving with a white weft thread in cotton or linen. Its name comes from the city of Cambrai in northern France where it originated. It looks like faded jeans but differs from them by its very light texture that lets the skin breathe.
Chambray shirt
Asphalt Shirt
Denim shirt
Première Manche Shirt
Today denim has conquered the planet, nearly 60 jeans are sold every second in the world. It is estimated that each person owns an average of 7 jeans. From a simple uniform, it has been transformed over time into an essential basic of the modern wardrobe and has been declined in all forms, crossing generations and dressing all social classes.
