Ties: how to choose them?
Temps de lecture : 3 minutes
History
The history of the tie is an epic story that spans several centuries and reveals the evolution of men's fashion and social codes.
This history goes back to Antiquity. The Romans wore a scarf called a "focale" for practical reasons. The real rise of the tie as a fashion accessory took place in 17th century France, under the reign of Louis XIV. He popularised the tie as an expression of refinement and distinction.
Over the centuries, the tie has evolved through various styles and trends. In the 19th century, it was often adorned with extravagant patterns and bright colours. In the 20th century, more sober and elegant styles appeared, and the tie found its place in the professional environment.
Selection criteria
There is something for everyone, so how do you choose the one that suits both your style and the occasion? There are several selection criteria to consider. These include width, material and pattern.
Width
We can classify ties into three categories:
- Narrow ties (5 to 6.5 centimetres): Ideal for a modern, elegant look, they are particularly suited to slim men.
- Standard ties (6.5 to 8 centimetres):Versatile, they are suitable for most body shapes and occasions, whether at work or at formal events.
- Wide ties (8 to 10 centimetres): These ties add a bold, classic touch, often paired with traditionally cut suits. They are suitable for tall men.
At Première Manche, we prefer a width of 6.8cm, which is halfway between a narrow tie and a wide tie.
Materials
Première manche uses 100% natural materials:
- Silk: Derived from the bombyx caterpillars of the mulberry tree, or silkworm, silk ties are classic and luxurious, with a smooth, shiny finish, ideal for formal occasions. At Première Manche, we also offer silk knit ties, which create a more modern, casual look thanks to their knitted texture.
- Wool and Cashmere: Wool or cashmere ties are perfect for the colder months, offering a warm, comfortable texture. These natural fibres, particularly wool, are the most insulating.
Patterns
- Stripes: Striped ties are classic and often indicate a sense of seriousness and tradition. Vertical stripes are perceived as elegant and can reinforce authority. Wider stripes can evoke confidence and professionalism, while thinner stripes can appear more modern.
© Ralph Lauren
- Tiles: They can symbolise a methodical, orderly approach. Tiles offer a balance between tradition and creativity.
© Ralph Lauren
- Houndstooth: The houndstooth pattern is a classic and timeless tie design. It is made up of small chevrons or V-shaped motifs that are repeated all over the surface of the tie.
- Plain : Plain ties, with no pattern, are simple and elegant. They are ideal for formal occasions.
- Geometric patterns: Geometric patterns, such as diamonds, circles or abstract shapes, add a modern touch to a tie. They can also be a distinctive element that reveals your style, but beware of the type of event you're attending. For formal events, a plain or striped tie will be more appropriate.
© Hermès
Manufacture
Making a tie is a meticulous process involving several stages. Here is how a typical tie is made:
- Fabric selection: Première Manche ties are made from natural materials: silk, wool and cashmere. The quality of the fabric is essential for a top-of-the-range tie.
- Cutting the fabric: The fabric is cut into long, narrow strips, which will become the front of the tie. The direction of the thread must be taken into account to ensure optimum strength and flexibility.
- Joining the panels: Two panels of fabric are joined right sides together, leaving a small opening at the end. This opening will allow the tie to be turned inside out after sewing.
- Sewing: The panels are sewn together on the inside, creating a tube shape. The seams are usually hidden, giving the tie a clean and elegant finish.
- Turning: The tie is then turned right side out through the opening left previously. This ensures that the seams are hidden inside the tie.
- Inner lining: An inner lining is inserted to give the tie body and structure. At Première Manche, the linings of our ties are very often made of wool.
- Tip end: The narrow end of the tie is folded over and sewn to form a clean finish.
- Wide end: The wide end of the tie is folded to form a clean corner and sewn. This may also include adding a branding label to the back of the tie.
- Pressing: The tie is carefully ironed to remove creases and give a smooth finish.
- Labelling: A brand label can be sewn onto the back of the tie, indicating the manufacturer and material.
- Packaging: Once the tie is completely manufactured, it is inspected to ensure it meets quality standards. It is then folded, individually wrapped and ready for dispatch to customers.
Each step in the manufacturing process is essential to ensure the tie's quality, durability and elegance. At Première Manche, our ties are handmade in a small French workshop near Lyon.
