THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF SHIRT FABRICS
Temps de lecture : 3 minutes
THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF COTTON FABRICS
Cotton is a material that has the advantages of being insulating, thermo-regulating and absorbent. It can be woven in different ways, with threads of varying colors, to obtain textiles of varying thickness, shiny or matte, for summer or winter. Here is a short retrospective on cotton so that you know what a beautiful cotton is and that you can recognize a beautiful shirt thanks to its cotton!
Presentation of the different weaves
First thing: you must know that each fabric is characterized by its weave, its width, the number of warp and weft threads per centimeter as well as the color of the threads: raw or dyed.
The warp thread is the vertical thread of the fabric (in the length) while the weft thread is the horizontal thread of the fabric (in the width).
The weave is the way the warp and weft threads are interwoven. Three basic weaves exist: plain, twill and satin. They are differentiated by the number of warp or weft threads interlaced at right angles.
Plain weave
is the simplest weave. The weft thread passes alternately above and below the warp thread, and this in a continuous manner. There is no reverse or right side. We obtain fabrics called "grain" such as poplin, veils, muslin. They have the property of being strong and durable.
The twill weave
is said to be "unhooking". Its structure is made from warp and weft threads that cross each other and form diagonals at 45 °. These appear on the fabric in the form of oblique patterns. The reverse side and the right side are well marked. Different effects can be obtained depending on the number of warp threads overlapped by weft threads: chevron, twill, denim ... Twill fabrics are rougher than canvas and less wrinkled.
Satin weave
produces fabrics with a satin effect, plain and smooth, with a shiny front and a matte back. The weave is similar to twill because there is only one binding stitch on each thread, but these stitches are scattered to avoid the slanting effect of twill.
The different types of fabrics obtained from each of these three cotton weaves
The Oxford
History of Oxford
This fabric was created in the English city of Oxford by a Flemish weaver who had emigrated there after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685. The oxford shirts became the dress of the polo players. They emigrated to the United States, where Brooks Brothers took them over and modified them by adding a button-down collar in 1896. The model became popular among the student population of the East Coast in the 1970s and 80s. It was then imported to France by the major American brands
The Oxford weave
Oxford is one of the most versatile shirt fabrics. Its braided weave is composed of a colored warp thread and a single white weft thread of large circumference. The warp threads are more numerous than the weft threads. One thus obtains a fabric known as "with grains", with the effect of false plain which slightly brings out its squaring. It is a thick textile, with a fresh and brittle touch, with a good support and a rigidity in the fall, it wrinkles little.
When to wear an Oxford shirt?
The oxford shirt adapts to all seasons because of its thick weave. It can be worn casually with its raw and matte look: under a wool sweater with a round neck in winter, over a chino in summer or open over a tee-shirt and shorts during the vacations. It is available in many colors. Resistant, easy care, breathable, soft, it is the casual shirt par excellence.
It can also be adapted to more formal outfits by choosing a light color and associating it with a suit and a plain tie.
Minimum weight for a good quality : 120g/m2 to 250g/m2
Poplin
History of poplin
Formerly called "papeline", poplin appeared in the 15th century in Avignon, the city of the Popes. It comes from a mixture of wool and silk and was originally used to cover furniture.
The weaving of poplin
Poplin was woven from a thick wool weft thread and a silk warp thread. Today, the thick weft yarn is woven with twice as many fine warp yarns of the same color, giving the fabric a dense and durable appearance. This is the classic weave, the most used. It is very tight and of very good quality.
When should I wear a poplin shirt?
Because of its smooth appearance, a poplin shirt is best suited for an elegant and formal outfit such as a business meeting, a cocktail party or a family event. The light color of the shirt will coordinate perfectly with a gray or navy blue suit, a silk tie and black or brown leather shoes. Lightweight, flexible and easy to care for, it is very soft and comfortable to wear.
Minimum weight for a good quality: 110g/m2 to 160g/m2
We can also find exceptional poplin between 90g/m2 and 110g/m2 with a very fine thread for a very soft, silky fabric of superb quality but which will tend to wrinkle quickly.
End-on-end
History of thread and weaving
Yarn-to-yarn is made from a plain weave. It is a poplin with colored threads: for weaving, we use warp and weft threads of different colors, with contrasting shades.
When is a fil-à-fil shirt worn?
Threadbare shirts are light and easy to wear. They are suitable for warmer seasons. They have a mottled look due to the alternating colored threads.
Minimum weight for a good quality : 110g/m2 to 160g/m2
The twill
History of twill
Twill is a weaving technique but also a fabric made with this technique. It is used to make jeans, ties and silk pouches, among others. It has the advantage of highlighting the colors. The English name "twill" has German origins which means "crossed fabric".
The "twill" weave
Twill is derived from a twill weave. The same number of warp and weft threads are used, with the warp thread shifting by one weft thread with each row, creating a stair-stepped slanted stripe look and diagonals appear on the fabric.
When should I wear a twill shirt?
Twill is a thick, soft and easy to care for fabric. A twill shirt is best worn in winter because of its resistant, warm and soft texture. It is one of the essentials of the men's wardrobe. With little wrinkling, it is suitable for all situations: formal with a suit and tie for a business outfit, casual with a wool sweater, jeans and leather boots.
Minimum weight for a good quality : 120g/m2 to 160g/m2
The dobby
History of the dobby and weaving
Its name comes from the contraction of "draw boy" which designated the weaver's assistant. The role of the drawboy was to deform the thread during weaving in order to create patterns. Today's looms increase or decrease the number of warp and weft threads during weaving to create these patterns. The result is a silky fabric that is distinguished by the refinement of its patterns. Its honeycombed texture reflects light well, which helps to highlight the contrasts in an outfit.
When to wear a dobby shirt?
Because of its micro-patterns that give it relief and subtlety, the dobby shirt lends itself to elegant occasions: it is perfect for a formal evening with a tuxedo and a bow tie, or on a business outfit with a dark suit and a silk tie.
Minimum weight for good quality: 150g/m2
The chevron
History of the chevron and weaving
The herringbone has a squared pattern which the Scots believe to be the shape of a fish bone. It is woven in a twill weave, and is often woven with different colored warp and weft threads. The alternating direction of the threads creates a characteristic zigzag pattern that gives depth to the colors.
When should I wear a herringbone shirt?
The herringbone shirt is soft, silky and easy to iron. Its zig-zag pattern gives it a worked and elegant style. It is easily worn in a formal way and combines perfectly with a suit and a tie. It can also be paired with a more casual look with jeans and a pair of sneakers.
Minimum weight for a good quality : 120g/m2 to 160g/m2
L'Exception shirt
Julie et Floriant Shirt
The flannel
History of the flannel
The flannel has Welsh origins, it means "wool" because it was initially only woven in this material. Since then it has evolved, and we find flannels of cotton, cotton/wool or cotton/cashmere, more adapted to the city life, very soft, that we wear next to the skin.
Flannel weaving
The wool flannel is issued from a plain weave with carded yarns thus raw to give it a fluffy aspect. The cotton flannel is made from a twill weave: the threads are combed and scraped thanks to rollers equipped with micro-pins turning in the opposite direction to obtain a greater softness.
When should I wear a flannel shirt?
The flannel shirt has the particularity of being heavy and therefore having a nice fall. It is a thick and soft material that retains heat and prevents the cold from passing, it is particularly pleasant to wear in winter. It is very supple and does not wrinkle easily. It can be worn in plain colors as well as in checks of all colors: tartan for a casual look, small checks or Vichy for a more sophisticated style. Plain, it can be worn formally under a suit.
Minimum weight for a good quality : 180g/m2
The higher the weight, the warmer the flannel.
Denim
History of denim and weaving
Denim or "jeans'' was invented in Genoa in the Middle Ages. It then spread throughout Europe and inspired in France the creation of another material made from a mixture of wool and silk: the "serge of Nimes' ' which anglicized, became thereafter "denim". Later, the new denim was invented in the United States, it is made from a two-tone cotton fabric obtained by intertwining a light weft yarn with a warp yarn dyed in a natural blue. This dyeing is created thanks to two plants: the indigo tree and the dyers' woad. It is called "Blu du Genova", Genoa Blue, hence the name blue jeans.
The weaving of denim and jeans differs but it is very tight in both cases, which gives it strength and durability. Denim is made from a twill weave with warp and weft threads of the same color. Denim is also made from a twill weave but the warp threads are indigo and the weft threads are unbleached, which allows for faded effects.
These two thick and resistant fabrics were initially reserved for blue collar workers, miners and mechanics who appreciated their robust properties. Little by little, they became more popular and were adorned with fine details and finishes, reaching the general public, thanks to advertising campaigns with the great stars of the time (Marilyn Monroe...).
When to wear a denim shirt?
The denim shirt is a must-have in the men's wardrobe. It gives an authentic and casual look, and can be worn in summer as well as in winter over jeans or chino. It is available in light or darker tones, thin or thicker fabrics. It can also be associated with a formal outfit by choosing a thin and dark shirt, which is associated with a navy blue jacket and a knit tie. For a casual look, wear it under a wool cardigan, with a beige or khaki chino and sneakers, or over jeans with leather boots.
Minimum weight for good quality: 160g/m2 to 250g/m2 (or 6.7oz/yd2 to 10.5oz/yd2)
The chambray
History of chambray and weaving
Chambray was born in the north of France, in the city of Cambrai in the 17th century. It comes from a weaving technique called batiste, which allows to create a finer linen fabric and to give it a glossy surface by passing it between two rollers.
The chambray emigrated to the United States where it was renewed in the 19th century. It is then woven from a warp yarn of indigo color and a white weft yarn, on a plain weave. It is different from denim because it has neither back nor front, is lighter and softer and has a more or less regular appearance.
When should I wear a chambray shirt?
