THE FLANNEL SHIRT, A WINTER ESSENTIAL

It was originally inspired by the large Scottish checks, but has been declined throughout history in plain colors and smaller checks. It adapts to all styles, from grunge to rock, then to streetwear and finally to the wardrobe of the elegant man.

1. History of the flannel

• The tartan pattern

It all starts in Scotland. Each family clan has its own specificities and among others its own tartan pattern. Tartan is a woolen fabric printed with perpendicular stripes in different colors that allows Scottish clans to differentiate themselves. The battle of Culloden which broke out in 1746 between the Scottish clans of the Highlands and England, marks the end of this era, the British authorities deciding in 1747 to prohibit any symbol of Scottish culture and thus the wearing of the tartan kilt.

• The lumberjack pattern

Thereafter, at the beginning of the 19th century, a young Englishman, John Rich, left England and Liverpool to settle in the United States in Pennsylvania. Son of a wool carder, he decided to found a woolen mill in 1830: the Woolrich Woolen Mills. He produced blankets and socks for lumberjacks, pioneers and farmers. A few years later, he created woolen jackets for workers, especially those on the railroad: this is the appearance of the Railroad Vest. In 1850, he continued to innovate and launched a woolen shirt with red and black checks called Buffalo or "red plaid shirt".  It was an immediate success, especially with cowboys. This shirt was taken up and highlighted in 1914 by Paul Bunyan: a giant lumberjack, cartoon character and symbol of the American lifestyle. He wears his red and black checkered shirt, and is accompanied by a blue ox named Babe.

• The flannel shirt with checks

At the end of the 1920s, another company, Pendleton, specialized in wool, also created its first wool shirt but this time with the idea of democratizing it for all Americans. A women's line came out at the end of the Second World War.

Since then, the checkered shirt has been emulated. It was adopted by skiers in the 50s. Then in the 60s, the American group Beach Boys displayed with a shirt Pendleton on the cover of their album Surfer Girl.

The model is then taken up by several personalities such as the actors of Little House on the Prairie in the 70s, or the character of Steve Urkel in the series Family Life in the 80s, then in the 90s the grunge trend makes its trademark (Kurt Cobain of the band Nirvana).

The little house on the prairie

Steve Urkel

Kurt Cobain

Since then, the fashion industry has really taken hold of the phenomenon, moving from wool flannel to lighter cotton flannel, and declining the tartan pattern year after year in ever-changing colors. This trend inspires the greatest designers like Yves Saint Laurent or Marc Jacobs. It became the spearhead of hipsters and rock stars who contribute to its continued success today.

Hipsters

Ryan Gosling

2. What is flannel?

Etymologically "wool" in Welsh, flannel was originally made only from wool.  It has since evolved and can be made of a mixture of wool and cotton or be 100% cotton only, a softer and lighter texture, which can be easily worn next to the skin. Its appearance is obtained by pressing the fabric between two rollers equipped with micro-beads and rotating in opposite directions, in order to scrape and comb the material which becomes fluffy and fluid. Its relatively thick and soft texture keeps the body warm and prevents the cold from passing through, while avoiding wearing too many different layers.

It is also very soft and wrinkle-free, with a naturally clean fall. In short, a natural and robust fabric with thermoregulatory properties. Finally a warm shirt to put on, without the cold feeling that you can feel with other fabrics. 

It is available in plain colors as well as large checks: tartan for a casual look, plain and small checks: tattersall or Vichy type for a more elegant and sophisticated style. 

• Zoom Première Manche

At Première Manche, we have chosen our tartan and checked patterns from one of the best Japanese suppliers, Japan being very famous for the quality of its flannel shirts. Modern and elegant colors and patterns, easy to wear and combine.

Our plain flannel shirts are sourced from an expert Italian supplier. The result: a soft and irresistible flannel.

Flannel can be thick or light depending on the season and the desired look: with or without a sweater, open on a tee-shirt or closed. We love it for its warmth and elegance thanks to a cut, patterns and neat finishes.

Follow our size guide to be sure to choose the one that fits you best.

Related products

Tartan flannel shirt

Checked grey flannel shirt

Grey flannel shirt

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