It is the collar of the shirt that gives it all its character. We often do not pay attention to it, and yet there are several types of men's shirt collars, which are not worn in the same way depending on the occasion, nor on the shape of the face.
What is the history of the men's shirt collar? What are the different types of collars that exist today? How to wear them? Which shirt collar to choose according to the shape of his face? So many questions that we answer in the following article.
The history of the shirt collar
The shirt collar appears at the beginning of the 16th century. It embellishes a garment that until then was worn as underwear and remained invisible. The fashion then was the neckline which could go until making the clavicles appear. A fur band was added in winter.
When the high collar appeared, it had gathered edges and hid the neck while protecting it from the cold.
In the 1530s, the collar evolved, its upper part folding in front, in the spirit of a broken collar. It was worn during the Renaissance by intellectuals. It is called the reverse collar or collar folded[cite: 14].
In the 1550's, this folded down part became the size of the collar we know today. This very fashionable collar is worn by the entire court of King Henry II, who himself abandoned the fraise he wore during his early reign.
In 1560, the collar became suspended, that is to say that it no longer rests along the neck but it is supported on the back of the pourpoint. It was worn by magistrates, officers and churchmen. It was rivaled by the fraise, which made a comeback among gentlemen, under the name of collar.
In the 1580s, we witnessed a return to sobriety following the spiritual revival that followed the Counter-Reformation. The collar is unanimously adopted, especially by the king himself Henry III[cite: 14]. It is short and then with time lengthens. There are several types of collars:
The classic model
The lace collar
The collar with close points
The collar with points directed towards the chest
The collar with spread points
In the 1600's, the collar evolved further and became the mounted collar: it is weightless above the shoulders[cite: 14]. It is mounted on a metal frame.
It becomes more and more exuberant with a wide plate up to the shoulders and lace. Its size and the nature of its lace show the degree of nobility. It is called the rotunda because it starts far behind the neck. This one is also worn by churchmen, but in a more sober way.
In the 1630s, the rotunda gradually disappeared in favor of the large lace collar, typical of the reign of Louis XIII. This collar spreads over the entire length of the shoulders.
In 1640, the lace collar was shortened, and the shoulders of its owner. The lace takes a lobed form, all in roundness and softer.
In the 1660s, the collar took a vertical shape and extended over the chest.
During the 1670s, it was gradually replaced by the tie. The shape of the flap does not evolve much more and is reserved for churchmen, military and magistrates.
Shirt collars today
There are eight different collars:
The French collar
The French collar is the most common shirt collar. A great classic, it can be worn with or without a tie, on an elegant or casual shirt. Its characteristics: a small opening and points around 6 centimeters.
The Italian collar or cutaway
It has a larger opening than the French collar. It is the second most common collar. It can be worn with a fairly wide tie.
The English collar or Tab collar
This is a collar with a narrow opening and a button placket that holds both sides of the collar. It is worn with a thin tie that hides the placket. The latter allows to highlight the tie knot.
The American collar or button-down collar
This collar is held to the shirt by small buttons. It was invented by polo players to keep it in place and not to be bothered by a flying collar during their frantic gallops. Today, American collar shirts are worn casually on weekends without a tie. But they can be worn more elegantly if the shirt has a good fit.
The Mao collar
It comes from the traditional dress worn by Chinese courtesans of the king. In the 1950s, Mao Zedong appropriated this collar and popularized it. He practically only wears this collar during his official representations as a military officer. It is at this time that the Mao collar takes its name[cite: 14]. It is a straight and short collar that goes up along the neck without making folds. Its two sides do not overlap, leaving a space between them, so there is no buttonhole.
The Mao collar is more casual than the French collar. It is worn on all occasions that do not require a tie. It brings with it a touch of minimalism, elegance and modernity.
The officer collar
The officer collar is very similar to the Mao collar except that its two sides overlap and are closed by a buttonhole. It comes from the jackets of military officers worn in the nineteenth century. It can be worn on a smart or casual outfit. Like the Mao collar, it allows a clear head carriage and brings modernity.
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The off-collar
This collar is reserved for big events like a wedding or a gala dinner. It is worn with a bow tie or a lavaliere and a tuxedo. The shirt will always be white.
The club collar
This is a collar with rounded points, resolutely dandy and very elegant. It is worn with a tie or a bow tie. The collar is often white on a white, striped or colored shirt.
Which collar for which face shape?
First thing: a shirt collar should reach the middle of the neck height.
For a long face, avoid long collars that lengthen. Exit the French and American collar. On the other hand, we wear the Italian collar which brings balance to the face as well as the broken collar.
For a small face, we choose a short collar which allows to keep a harmony like the club collar or the Italian collar.
For a round face, we go for a long collar like the French or American collar. Exit the Italian collar[cite: 14]. You can wear the English collar unless you feel too tight.
