01 Mode

Everything about Moleskine fabric

14 min read
Everything about Moleskine fabric

© Picture seen on Comme Un Camion.

1. The origin and characteristics of Moleskine

The term Moleskine comes from the fusion of two English words: "mole" and "skin". Moleskine was originally a sturdy, weather-resistant garment made by English gardeners. It was Alphonse Lafont, in the 20th century, who began using this fabric for workwear in various professions. This material develops a patina over time, enabling garments to be kept for a very long time without losing their cachet. It is known for its durability and ability to withstand daily wear and tear, making it a popular choice for workwear.

© LL Bean moleskin coat, seen on Redingote.

Moleskin fabric was subsequently democratized and its use expanded. It's a dense, hard-wearing cotton canvas, sometimes brushed to give it a soft, fluffy texture. It is sometimes coated to imitate suede, hence the origin of its name "mole skin". Its pile is stronger and denser than that of flannel. The weight of this fabric is quite high, ranging from 180g/m² for thick shirts to over 500g/m² for coats.

2. How to choose a good Moleskine fabric

It's important to consider several factors when choosing a quality Moleskine fabric:

- No pilling

- No shiny or silky effect

- The fabric should be rough, not soft.

©  Etoffe.com, Christian Lacroix

It's also essential to have a high cotton composition, close to 100%. It's best to avoid mixing with other fibers, but a slight percentage of elastane, for example, can bring a certain comfortable stretch to the garment.

Fabric density and weight are also important considerations. A higher density and greater fabric weight ensure greater strength and durability of the moleskin fabric.

3. How to treat the Moleskine fabric

Caring for moleskin is relatively straightforward, but requires special attention to preserve its quality and appearance over time. Here are a few tips:

- Washing: We recommend washing moleskin garments in cold water or at 30 degrees maximum. It's best to turn garments inside out to protect the outer surface. Avoid the use of strong detergents that could alter the texture of the fabric.

- Drying: Moleskin can be sensitive to shrinkage, so we recommend air-drying rather than tumble-drying. If necessary, use a low temperature.

- Ironing: To avoid damaging the fabric, iron inside out at a moderate temperature, below 100 degrees. For added safety, use a clean line on top.

- Storage: To keep moleskin in optimum condition, avoid leaving garments in direct sunlight for long periods. Storage in a cool, dry place is ideal.

© Vétra

4. The Moleskine Jacket

Moleskine has enjoyed a resurgence in the world of men's fashion, becoming a popular choice for those seeking a balance between style and functionality. Moleskin is also widely used for work jackets.

The moleskin work jacket embodies the aesthetic of utilitarian clothing, with multiple pockets. Today, it is available in a wide range of colors.

This versatile piece can be combined with casual wear. Worn over a basic t-shirt and jeans, for example, it creates a balance between style and functionality. 

For a more formal look, layer it over a button-down shirt and chino pants.

In conclusion, the moleskin jacket is a must-have piece in your wardrobe, easily adaptable to any occasion. See our article on work jackets for more style ideas and tips.

Frequently Asked Questions

What we
are asked

For a job interview, choose a white poplin or twill shirt with a semi-spread collar. It’s the most neutral option: it won’t distract your interviewer and shows attention to detail without trying to make an impression.
Three signs: the chest buttons are pulling (you can see gaps between the button plackets), the shoulder seams sit forward of the shoulder point, or the collar leaves red marks at the end of the day. If any of these signs are present, go up a size.
In formal settings, yes. A tucked-in shirt signals attention to detail. It is designed to be worn that way: if it looks too long when untucked, it’s a fit issue, not a style choice.
Five is the minimum to avoid repeating the same shirt every week: two white, two light blue, and one in a slightly bolder fabric or color. The goal isn’t quantity, but rotation without visual fatigue.

Premiere Manche

Premiere Manche makes shirts from double-twisted cotton, tailored in Portugal using fabrics sourced from Italy and Japan. Première Impression is our space for reflecting on style, materials, and care—free from commercial arguments.

Continuer vos achats Your Selection
is waiting for you.