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How to choose the right shirt for winter?

17 min read
How to choose the right shirt for winter?

With the onset of cold weather, it's important to select shirts that ensure warmth and comfort, as well as durability. Whether it's a lightweight shirt for moderate days or a thicker overshirt for extreme cold, each model offers specific advantages. Here's the Première Manche guide to help you understand the different weights, fabrics and manufacturing processes.

1. For cold, moderate days: lightweight shirts

For cooler weather, choose Oxford cotton shirts. This strong, breathable fabric is comfortable and lightweight. Oxford shirts, from 130 g/m² to 250 g/m², are suitable for several seasons. Thicker models are better suited to colder climates or winter. Oxford is ideal for casual shirts under a jacket or jumper.

The Oxford weave is renowned for its strength and discreetly rough texture. These shirts are versatile and suitable for both professional and casual environments.

BLUE OXFORD SHIRT

78€

Dave Shirt.

2. For optimum comfort: intermediate shirts

Lightweight flannel shirts, mainly woven in Portugal and Japan, are perfect for cool days. Their brushed fabric, with a grammage from 175 g/m², offers a soft feel, retains heat and remains breathable for optimum comfort. Versatile, they adapt to temperate environments and can be worn as a shirt or overshirt. Japanese flannels, which are often thicker (over 200 g/m²), are particularly suited to winter temperatures.

Flannel is made from a tight weave of cotton, wool or synthetic fibres. Scraped on one or both sides, it acquires a soft, fluffy appearance. This process improves its thermal insulation, making it ideal for winter clothing.

At Première Manche, these shirts are designed not to pilling or shrink, as long as you follow the instructions: wash at 40°C and avoid the tumble dryer.

GREY FLANNEL SHIRT

78€

Kurt Shirt.

3. For a versatile extra layer: overlays

The overshirt, made from thick fabrics such as flannel, cotton or boiled wool, is an excellent alternative against the cold. Often weighing more than 250g/m², they offer optimum insulation.

Overshirts, with their thick fabric, provide effective insulation and replace a classic shirt when closed. They can also be easily worn over a jumper or t-shirt for an extra layer of warmth.

WOOL HOUNDSTOOTH OVERSHIRT

129€

Andrew Overhead.

4. Recommended subjects

Favouring natural materials in winter ensures effective thermal insulation and optimum comfort. Breathable fibres such as cotton and wool are ideal for protecting against the cold.

Cotton is a natural fabric, renowned for its softness and ability to absorb moisture. Although more suited to moderately cold climates, it makes an excellent base layer in winter, offering comfort and light insulation. Hypoallergenic, it is particularly suitable for sensitive skin, ensuring prolonged use without irritation. It's the perfect balance of comfort, practicality and protection from the cold.

Wool, the natural material par excellence, is the warmest thanks to its fibrous structure, which traps air to form an insulating barrier. It also regulates moisture, keeping the body dry and warm even in the coldest weather. A must-have in winter, it's ideal for mid- or outer-layers, offering optimum insulation while remaining breathable.

BEIGE WOOL OVERSHIRT

78€

Andrew Overhead.

5. The extras

In winter, Première Manche opts for shirts with button-down collars for optimum support under layers, with reinforced buttons and seams for extra durability. The slim fit is perfect under a jacket, while a slightly looser cut is ideal for use as an overshirt.

Find out more :

Weight :

A lightweight shirt (<170 g="" m="" is="" suitable="" for="" autumn="" or="" temperate="" climates="" while="" a="" heavier="" weight="">200 g/m²) or a lining is ideal for winter conditions.

Warmth and breathability:

Thick or lined shirts retain heat effectively while guaranteeing good breathability. They are ideal for outdoor activities or unheated environments.

Frequently Asked Questions

What we
are asked

For a job interview, choose a white poplin or twill shirt with a semi-spread collar. It’s the most neutral option: it won’t distract your interviewer and shows attention to detail without trying to make an impression.
Three signs: the chest buttons are pulling (you can see gaps between the button plackets), the shoulder seams sit forward of the shoulder point, or the collar leaves red marks at the end of the day. If any of these signs are present, go up a size.
In formal settings, yes. A tucked-in shirt signals attention to detail. It is designed to be worn that way: if it looks too long when untucked, it’s a fit issue, not a style choice.
Five is the minimum to avoid repeating the same shirt every week: two white, two light blue, and one in a slightly bolder fabric or color. The goal isn’t quantity, but rotation without visual fatigue.

Premiere Manche

Premiere Manche makes shirts from double-twisted cotton, tailored in Portugal using fabrics sourced from Italy and Japan. Première Impression is our space for reflecting on style, materials, and care—free from commercial arguments.

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