The linen shirt is light, resistant, and thermoregulating. Very pleasant to wear, it adapts perfectly to summer temperatures.
What is the history of linen? How is it cultivated and by whom? What are its advantages and disadvantages?
A closer look at this plant with many beneficial properties.
The History of Linen
Linen is one of the oldest known textile fibers. Its first traces were discovered in Georgia and date back more than 36,000 years. At that time, linen was used to make ropes or threads for sewing skin clothes and shoes. Over time, its cultivation spread across Asia, reaching Egypt and finally Europe.
In Egypt, linen was used to manufacture sails and ropes for boats, as well as bandages for mummification. The Egyptians called it "woven moonlight" and associated it with the goddess Isis.
In France, linen was cultivated under the influence of Charlemagne in the 8th century, who ordered that linen be spun at court. In the 17th century, Louis XIV wore linen shirts under his clothes—it was during this era that the words "linen" and "lingerie" appeared. In 1817, Philippe de Girard patented the first linen spinning machine. Unfortunately, linen soon faced fierce competition from cotton and synthetic textiles, which were less expensive to produce.
Linen reappeared in Normandy between the two World Wars, cultivated by Belgian refugees who settled there during the First World War.
Linen: The Plant
There are no fewer than 200 species of flax, most of which are wild plants that lack the quality properties of cultivated linen. Farmers use seeds controlled and certified by the Ministry of Agriculture, sowing them in March. It takes about 100 days for the plant to reach maturity. It is then pulled out with specialized machines and the stems are laid flat on the ground for several weeks to achieve satisfactory retting.
The flax flower is blue or white depending on the species. It features five petals and blooms for only a short period.
Retting
The fibers are then extracted from the woody core of the stem using mechanical scutching. The wood byproduct is recycled into animal bedding or wood chips.
The resulting fibers are combed and stretched into a long ribbon (sliver) that is sent to a spinning mill to be spun and woven.
Until the 1980s, these steps were carried out in Europe, then mostly shifted to China before returning as finished products. Today, we are witnessing a resurgence of local spinning mills, enabling the production of 100% French finished goods.
Global Linen Production
Linen is grown all over the world: in China, Russia, Poland, Lithuania, Ukraine, France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Ireland, and Egypt. However, linen fibers vary in quality depending on location. France produces linen in greater quantity and higher quality than China, despite China having a larger area under cultivation.
Western Europe benefits from the most suitable climate and soil for producing high-quality, fine, and durable linen.
Linen in France
France is the most prominent producer of linen in Europe thanks to its temperate oceanic climate, rich and fertile soils, and well-structured industry. It represents over 80% of European production with 77,000 hectares cultivated, 65,000 of which are in Normandy. Other major producing regions include Hauts-de-France, Picardy, and Brittany. French linen takes pride in being of the highest quality worldwide.
The French linen sector includes two variety creation centers, seven seed producers, 27 scutching cooperatives, and over 6,500 linen growers.
The industry is governed in France by the European Confederation of Flax and Hemp (CELC), founded in 1951, which unites farmers and processing companies representing more than 10,000 businesses.
Irish Linen
The cultivation of linen in Ireland dates back to the Phoenician era. From the 17th century onward, the industry was driven by Lord Thomas Wentworth (Earl of Strafford) and James Butler (Duke of Ormonde). However, it was Louis Crommelin, a French Huguenot, who truly modernized the manufacturing process. By the 18th century, Belfast had become the world's leading linen production hub.
Today, yarn is often sourced globally and woven in Ireland by members of the Irish Linen Guild to preserve the official Irish Linen label.
Notable Guild members include:
- William Clark
- Magee (perhaps the most well-known)
- Emblem
- John England
- Spence Bryson Linen
- Thomas Ferguson Irish Linen
- Samuel Upstream
- Baird McNutt
Italian Linen
Linen is also widely woven in Italy, home to renowned textile mills. Each mill excels in its own specialized weaving techniques. These companies are globally recognized among the finest textile producers:
- Reda
- Vitale Barberis Canonico
- Loro Piana
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Ormezzano, Guabello
- Drago
- Lanificio Carlo Barbera
Linen Today
Today, 90% of European linen goes to the textile market—60% for clothing, 15% for home linens, and 15% for lifestyle applications. The remaining 10% is dedicated to technical solutions with high environmental performance: stationery, automotive parts, thermal insulation, health products, aeronautics, and sports gear.
Within the fashion industry, linen is experiencing a major revival. Between 2002 and 2007 alone, cultivated surface area grew from 30,000 to 75,000 hectares.
Pros and Cons of Linen
Linen is a sustainable plant with outstanding eco-friendly credentials.
It grows quickly, reaching maturity in just 100 days. Its cultivation requires minimal watering and almost no pesticides due to its natural resistance to pests and microorganisms. Furthermore, every part of the plant can be fully utilized without waste.
As a fabric, linen is lightweight, antibacterial, and hypoallergenic. It is exceptionally durable over time thanks to the length and structure of its natural fibers, which measure tens of centimeters long (compared to tens of millimeters for other fibers). Additionally, linen features natural thermoregulating properties: its fibers contain pectins that absorb or release moisture according to weather conditions. It can absorb up to 30% of its dry weight in moisture while remaining dry to the touch. It dries rapidly and wicks perspiration cleanly without leaving watermarks.
Consequently, linen shirts are comfortable to wear year-round, allowing the skin to breathe naturally.
Finally, as a 100% natural textile, it possesses a subtle sheen, structure, and premium quality unmatched by synthetic alternatives.
The drawbacks: Linen wrinkles easily—more so than cotton. It can also feel slightly stiff when brand new, though it softens remarkably with every wash.
Overall, linen offers exceptional advantages: it is a cool, lightweight, and thermoregulating fabric. It is ideal for summer weather and heatwaves, offering timeless comfort and elegance.
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